Friday, 17 January 2025

Biking Birder I January 17th 2010 Cliffe Pools and Northward Hill RSPB Reserves

 


17th January                                                                  Ship Ahoy                                                        Frank Zappa

               Cliffe Pools RSPB reserve, famous for the long fight against the proposed Fourth London airport, was my next RSPB reserve to visit and Dave and I rode towards it early in the morning. Now Dave’s bike was a large, chunky mountain bike and with me on my sleek Cannondale road bike I had trouble staying behind him as he rode along roads that I thought were leading me the long way to the reserve.

              I am now ashamed to say that I was getting little frustrated as I wanted to get to the reserve ASAP and I hope that Dave will forgive me for my selfishness. Obviously, Dave knew better than me and we soon reached a deep water- filled quarry area but not before I had another puncture, the back tyre this time. Dave took over the repair job and we were joined by another cyclist, one that looked the part dressed in skin-tight Lycra. One for the ladies, a William’s furniture man! “Could we help his brother?” Another cyclist with a puncture but one with no repair kit. Of course we could and did.

              It was a lovely day weather-wise, warmish with cloudless skies and almost no wind. Perfect day for cycling. Before reaching the reserve proper, we stopped several times to look at birds; mainly finches and winter thrushes but also a lovely bright yellow male Yellowhammer and a Jay. At the quarry Dave told of the manager being up on manslaughter charges. A driver working there had gone down into the depths of the water still within his lorry as it sank due to an accident.           

              On the opposite side of the road to this stretch of water was another huge old quarry lake covered with hundreds of birds, Tufted Duck and Pochard with some gulls and a couple of Little Grebes. An old, battered Land Rover passed us and turned to greet us. It was the warden of Cliffe Pools. Pleasantries exchanged; it was always great to meet the sunshine RSPB people.             

              In through the back way to Cliffe Pools RSPB Reserve, or so it seemed to me but a large car park was there with a large RSPB sign. I had been to the reserve a couple of times before but had entered via a long pot-holed dirt road via Cliffe village. The first visit back in 2005 had been to dip on my bogey bird, a Terek Sandpiper. I have still to see one of those snobbish Common Sandpiper types with their upturned bills but one day I will latch onto one, won't I? What a sweltering day that had been and an insect bite on my shin that went septic caused a problem for a couple of weeks. The infection spread down the leg, creating a long deep red scar. A course of antibiotics luckily cleared it up.

               My other visit here at Cliffe had been a couple of years later when I had called in on the way to Dover for my then annual ferry ride over to Dunkirk and my extended summer holidays spent travelling, birding, exploring and mountain walking in France and Spain.

               Cliffe Pools turned out to be a superb and extremely large reserve, 230 hectares made up of massive old saline lagoons, freshwater pools, grassland, saltmarsh and scrub. Yet when I had visited the reserve on those previous occasions the talk had been of so much more. The RSPB's hope had been that it would become a new ‘Minsmere', another Titchwell for the south. A working partnership with Westminster Dredging PLC would create a Flagship nature reserve and the focus for visitors to the RSPB's Northwest Kent reserves. Unfortunately, funding had recently been pulled and the reserve at this moment had few facilities other than a car park and a couple of notice boards.



RSPB Cliffe Pools Nature Reserve
cc-by-sa/2.0 - © Hywel Williams - geograph.org.uk/p/43897

Cliffe Pools RSPB Reserve

              We soon cycled around to where a small crowd had gathered up on a sea defence wall all trying to see the reported Shore Larks. Not on view so we chatted. To my right the nearest bloke, David Rolfe, was a cyclist. He was soon discussing my broken back brakes and noticed that a small spring was missing.
"What's this small bird with a yellow face?" said Dave Saunders.

              Dave had found four Shore Larks [95] on a muddy shore. Good old Dave. Good one to get as well and onto the year list they went along with Grey Plover [96] and Knot [97]. The visit to Cliffe ended with a list of forty-eight birds, the previously named birds together with Goldeneye, Pintail, and Black-tailed Godwits being the highlights. Yet, as usual, the real highlights were the birders met. Richard Cockerill, who had come from Hemel Hempstead (!) to see the Shore Larks. What a coincidence of meeting a birder from my not so long-ago place of sanctuary from the worst winter weather for decades. Then there is the two Dave’s; Dave Saunders with his kind hospitality and Dave Rolfe, who offered the same a couple of nights later and helped with the bike. When you are at a twitch you strike up conversations and immediate bonds are made, the shared love of birds making for an understanding of where another is coming from. You can talk about past birds and with rarities other birders met will recall them and know that your love is genuine.  

    

               Dave and I cycled to Northward Hill RSPB Reserve, via narrow country lanes. The weather was being kind to us with little wind and no rain. Along the way we passed an impressive set of castle walls which Dave explained was the house of Jules Holland, the musician, Cooling Castle. A beautiful castle, it is just a shame that one cannot look around it because of Jules. Maybe you can but the house gates were locked and heavy curtains were drawn. How New Year's Eve would be missing something wonderful when Jules finally stops his Hogmanay celebrations of cool music on TV. 


Cooling Church Graveyard
cc-by-sa/2.0 - © Hywel Williams - geograph.org.uk/p/43903

              Nearby was Cooling Church and there were the 'nine lozenges', the graves of Pip's brothers in Great Expectations according to Dickens but there are actually a lot more children's graves in two rows, thirteen in all.

              The cycling was slow and easy as we made our way to Northward Hill RSPB reserve and on reaching there, we were invited into the offices. We were given coffee and the site manager, Julian, was an Arsenal fan which meant that immediate fun ensued with football talk. Being an Aston Villa fan, I had to discuss the incident between our thug-like centre forward from many years ago, Sammy Morgan and the Arsenal goalkeeper, Bob Wilson. I was in the Clock End of Arsenal's ground, Highbury for a F.A. Cup tie when Bob pretended to have been kicked by Sammy. Sammy was sent off and the Villa fans that day were close to the deception and showed their displeasure vehemently. We all saw that Sammy Morgan had leapt over the prone cheating goalie but Clive Thomas, the ego maniacal referee saw things differently that day. The match ended 1 – 1 and the replay at Villa Park attracted a full house. Maybe the massed Winston Churchill salutes by The Holte End masses directed at both Bob Wilson and Clive Thomas were not too friendly but the final score of 2 – 0 to the Villa was justice done. Sadly nowadays cheats do prosper in football. My love for the game has dissipated over the years, I see shirt pulling, diving, abuse to referees and ‘my ball’ cheats too often now to enjoy the game as once I did. How many times do you see players feigning injury? 


              Northward Hill RSPB reserve was a large reserve that had extensive low grazing grasslands to the north of the road and newly planted tree areas on hill slopes yet we were heading for the large old broadleaf woodland to the east. It was getting late in the afternoon as we walked across the reserve and I had just one thought; how come no one else was here to see the thousands of corvids that is Carrion Crows, Jackdaws and Rooks, coming into roost? Surely (don’t call me Shirley) Corvids coming to roost numbering in the tens of thousands is one of the avian wonders; a spectacle to be enjoyed, not only to be viewed but heard.

              When we arrived at a small viewpoint the sun had gone down and four Tawny Owls were calling. A large owl came overhead but I could not get any detail on it in the growing gloom. We had been told that Long-eared Owls were around but I could not honestly say it was one so it did not go onto the year list. It was almost silent as we looked at the thinnest of crescent Moons and the nearby Jupiter through Dave’s telescope.

              The four Galilean Moons were easy to see. Then we heard it, a distance sound of many cawing, chacking and calling birds, coming closer and closer by the second. Eventually over they came filling the sky, thousands of Rooks, Jackdaws and Crows and what a cacophony! Many times they landed on the trees in front of us only to rise and circle repeatedly. Truly a wonderful spectacle and all just for Dave and I. Nine Grey Heron came over in a ‘v’ formation and fourteen Woodcock [98] came zooming out; a couple so close that features could be seen. This was one of the most wondrous, beautiful evenings of my birding life. Who needs rarities for birding magic? Do yourself a favour if you live close by, go and see this wonderful avian event.

              In the dark we cycled back to Strood and after saying goodbye and thanks to Dave, I made my way to an uncomfortable 'hotel', which was overpriced at £18! I will not dwell on it too much but the landlady's request for me to name the place when I was interviewed by the local press the next day was a bit too much for her to expect. No luxury this. The small room was in the attic, six floors up and no lift. The mattress on the single bed had exposed springs and the dripping tap from an old sink in the room, may have constituted water torture except for me placing a sock under the tap to stop the noise. Now I may be sounding ungrateful and snobbish, especially considering what happened later in the year but this was early in the year and I still had visions of being comfortable most nights.

 17.85 miles                                                                                                 589 feet elevation up and down     



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Biking Birder I January 17th 2010 Cliffe Pools and Northward Hill RSPB Reserves

  17 th January                                                                      Ship Ahoy                                             ...