Sunday, 1 April 2018

Exploring Villages near to Mala.



I do so hope that you will follow my adventures. You can do so via this blog and also by my Biking Birder Facebook page and Twitter feed.


or via my personal Facebook page :


I am trying to raise money for two charities and obviously I would love you to donate to them.

Birdlife International



Chaskwasi-Manu Children's Project


OK! The adventure starts on Sunday next at Los Pantanos de Villa nature reserve, south of Lima, Peru. After the day spent there birding with friends, the adventure of my lifetime is ahead; six months of cycling, packrafting and birding. Six months to experience oceanic coastline, desert, mountains and rainforest. Six months to try and see more than 618 bird species, the incredible Green Birding list that is the current World Green Birding Year list record held by Dorian Anderson of the USA.


30th March 2018 – Mala Part 2

Up early, around five, I walk around the compound as daylight grows and the sunrise approaches from over high hills to the east. The compound is made of half a dozen or so bungalows of various expensive design with large gardens around each. All enclosed from the rest of the area by a high fence and thick hedge, our bungalow has it's own fence and hedge with a tall wooden gate.
Once outside this birds are soon to be heard if not seen in the half-light. Pacific Parrotlets are somewhere near, as are Long-tailed Mockingbirds. I reach a security tower near an area of two plots of dirt for sale and climb to sit on the top step and watch.


The sky brightens and sunrise! I always love that moment, the second that the Sun appears and the sharp, bright light sparkles above a ridge of mountain. In the past I have seen sunrises on so many holidays and sitting here I go through some special sunrise moments in my memory. From the northern tip of The Formentor Peninsula on Majorca looking towards Menorca as the Sun appeared whilst I sat on the edge of a high limestone cliff. Watching the golden ball set sail above the ocean horizon from a vantage point on a Tenerifian hill, Gran Canaria close by the the left. One memory involved two astrophysicists from France. In the Gredos Mountains of Spain together we had watched The Perseide meteorite shower on a warm August night in 2009. I joked that I wanted to see the following sunrise from atop a nearby mountain. Next morning in darkness I followed a path leading to a rocky scrabble over scree to get to a summit, arriving just in time to the majestic sunrise. Wolves howled their delight at the coming day. Well so I thought at the time as the haunting howl filled the valleys. It turned out to be a group of six large huskies at a nearby mountain refuge, seen as I descended to new friends.
Sunrise from a hot air balloon over the Nile in a hot air balloon, sunrise over The Atlantic from a beach near Cape Canaveral with the Space Shuttle in an upright position, I have been so lucky to have such wonderful memories and fortunate indeed that sunrise watching opportunities still are a feature of my travels.


A Burrowing Owl is head spinning on a nearby chimney, alert in the early sunlight. A small party of Pacific Parrotlets land on flower heads upon a bush near the base of the ladder to the tower and I watch and photograph them carefully trying not to move over much. A very small female hummingbird hovers going from flower to flower, a Peruvian Sheartail. 


So much smaller than an Amazilian Hummingbird and just to prove that to me one of the latter comes and displays at me from less than metre away! A goosebump moment as the hummingbird performs in front of my face, going from side to side hovering so close I could touch it if I stretched my arm out. It eventually lands on a nearby twig and I slowly photograph it.

Other birds come close and as if to prove that I am reasonably well concealed, a House Wren lands on the netting next to my face, centimetres from my left eye. A split second mistake as it immediately leaves to land on a nearby fencepost.



The fence line proves useful as other birds land on it, Croaking Ground Doves and the occasional Blue-black Grassquit are outshone by a brilliant red Vermilion Flycatcher.
After breakfast Mani, Katia, Nicholas and Katia's 'bestie', Christina and I head off to explore nearby villages. A pecan nut cluster covered in sugary icing is reminiscent of the sugar mice Mum bought for we kids after the ordeal of a haircut and a long walk through St Steven's Park in Stourbridge, a stop on the river view ridge. 

An icy, slushy juice called Cremolada, mine flavoured with pulped Lucuma brings the next stop in the village of Azpitia.
Hot now with no cloud and not a breath of wind, I fall asleep as we travel up a long valley overlooked by dusty, high sedimentary hills seemingly made of rock layers and a fine clay-like material. I awake when the car stops, finding us in a village called Calango . We go into a Catholic church to find all the statues and altar art work covered in sheets to show that this is Good Friday, the crucifixion day of Christ. 




Outside again, we walk along a street to a huge anciently decorated rock enclosed with gates and a high wall covered with explanatory murals, Coyllur Sayana.
Back to the bungalow for a large lunchtime meal, Peruvians really know their food and the quality is so much better than English supermarkets would ever allow. Table tennis with Nicholas, football with the girls and then a two hour siesta is disturbed by the girls wanting me to see the three peacocks that have entered our garden.


Moonrise just after the sunset, a full moon so beautifully photographed by Mani. Peruvian Thicknees fly over noisily and a few tiny bats flycatch. Eat the mozzies lads!
An evening is spent quietly laying in a hammock listening to gentle songs sung by Jack Johnson, beautiful reflections of simple yet special moments, 'Do you remember?' Malu, Fabian and Fernando's nine year old daughter has beautifully coloured in a phoenix-like bird for me. I will place it on my personal Facebook page as a profile picture once I return to the Wifi world.



A Day in Mala with Great Friends.



I do so hope that you will follow my adventures. You can do so via this blog and also by my Biking Birder Facebook page and Twitter feed.



or via my personal Facebook page :


I am trying to raise money for two charities and obviously I would love you to donate to them.

Birdlife International



Chaskwasi-Manu Children's Project


OK! The adventure starts today next at Los Pantanos de Villa nature reserve, south of Lima, Peru. After the day spent there birding with friends, the adventure of my lifetime is ahead; six months of cycling, packrafting and birding. Six months to experience oceanic coastline, desert, mountains and rainforest. Six months to try and see more than 618 bird species, the incredible Green Birding list that is the current World Green Birding Year list record held by Dorian Anderson of the USA.


29th March 2018 – Mala

Such wonderful friends, Katia and Mani with their sons, Luisfer and Nicholas, we set off at 5:30 a.m. For the family's holiday bungalow just south of the city of Mala. The motorway is busy despite the arly hour but traffic is moving steadily enough for us to make progress. A couple of lengthy stops are due to the toll gates. The weather is foggy but there is the promise of the sun burning this away. It is going to be another very hot day.
A carbon transport day before the six month Green adventure, I feel very tired and anxious over the coming fossil fuel free challenge. I just hope that this is due to the jetlag yet I am reminded that I have had three bouts of sinusitis this year with attendant asthma problems. My peak flow has been less than 400 of late.
We stop to buy some watch them being baked pies. They have a look life flying sauces with finger-pinched sides. Another item bought in good number is a tube of pastry filled with choice olives. Deliciousa!


We get to the bungalow via sandy dirt roads beyond a small village. Security gate is opened and we unload the holiday things from the boot and into the large bungalow. A superb and startlingly red Vermilion Flycatcher, male of course, is on a tree next to verandah oblivious to people as it searches for it's next prey item.
Mani and Katia go to bed. They work so hard and getting up early means they need to catch up with some sleep. Mani in particular is shattered. He hasn't been to bed at all overnight. In fact he spent the night with a study group working at his thesis for his Master's degree.
I go for a walk around the compound in the afternoon. Pacific Parrotlets are common,as are Streaked Saltators and Blue and White Swallows. Croaking Ground Doves do just that . . . croak and a small group of House Sparrows are in bushes in an adjacent house's hedge. Long-tailed Mockingbirds, Amazilia Hummingbirds and Groove-billed Anis are seen, the latter has a couple of juveniles hiding in thick undergrowth but betraying their presence by noisily begging for food. A Bran-coloured Flycatcher is the first one I have seen of this species at sea level. Overhead the occasional vulture fly past, Turkey and Black.
 Drab-coloured Seedeater
 Pacific Parrotlets and a passing Amazilian Hummingbird
 Streaked Saltator
Pacific Parrotlets

Into Mala for provisions, mainly fruit and salad, not of it is wrapped in plastic and all look marvellous and colourful.
Late afternoon and we are off on a rescue mission. Luisfer', Mani and Katia's oldest son needs ice for his first ever camping on a beach trip with his friends from University. So after queuing for about forty minutes on the motorway we arrive at their beach resort and pass over BBQ wood and large bags of ice. Now I could never image my parents travelling fifty miles to deliver bags of ice!
We return via a dusty dirt road to a small village, Azpitia, which lies atop a ridge with a large river below. We get out to admire the view and to enjoy a large glass of deep red Chicha. The next village has an Easter scene made up of Incan warriors and Spanish ladies as the protagonists.

Back at the bungalow more friends have arrived, Fabian and Fernando with their delightful daughter Malu. A very special couple, Fabian is from Nantes, France and speaks four languages perfectly. It is incredible the way Fabian can switch from English to Spanish in the same breath. The evening is spent with good food and good friends, games and music.



Saturday, 31 March 2018

A day in Lima, The Olive Tree Park in San Isidro



I do so hope that you will follow my adventures. You can do so via this blog and also by my Biking Birder Facebook page and Twitter feed.


or via my personal Facebook page :


I am trying to raise money for two charities and obviously I would love you to donate to them.

Birdlife International


Chaskwasi-Manu Children's Project


OK! The adventure starts on Sunday next, the first of April, at Los Pantanos de Villa nature reserve, south of Lima, Peru. After the day spent there birding with friends, the adventure of my lifetime is ahead; six months of cycling, packrafting and birding. Six months to experience oceanic coastline, desert, mountains and rainforest. Six months to try and see more than 618 bird species, the incredible Green Birding list that is the current World Green Birding Year list record held by Dorian Anderson of the USA.


28th March 2018 – Parque San Isidro, Lima, Peru

What a strange afternoon! A morning of sorting and sleeping, an attempt to put the body clock into the Peruvian time, I go to The nearby famous Olive Tree park in the afternoon. Every visit to this lovely park is different but how different this time.

Lots of Long-tailed Mockingbirds are on the grass in the first area yet are outnumbered by Saffron Finches. Little pockets of what appear to be family groups are everywhere. A couple of the dark variety of Vermilion Flycatcher are outshone by a dazzling red male.

I stroll along, that is what one does here stroll. Well, either stroll of sit on a shaded park bench or on the lush green grass. I reach the largest pool in the park and feed the sizeable goldfish some broken biscuits. Pigeons arrive to ask for morsels too. I share my packet with a couple of locals and have the fun stopped by a lady security guard who tells that feeding fish and fowl is not permitted. How the park has changed since my first visit in 2013. Then it was a lot rougher, with the pool having duck and Night Heron and then central pathway having cyclists. Major landscaping has gone on in the intervening years and the park is tidier.



There are still lots of birds though, Shiny Cowbirds are common and by pishing near the olive trees I manage to get Bananaquits and Southern Beardless Tyrrannulets close to me. Overhead, flashing around the treetops are dozens of Blue & Black Swallows.
I am startled from my serene slumber-like stroll by a medieval strolling minstrel. Every word I utter he sings it back to me! Perhaps I am a bit too sceptical but I have no money on me, not a Sole and worry about him asking for some. He, Gonzalez doesn't want money he just wants to sing to me and for me to join in. I suggest we get the security guards, including the fish starver, to join in. 

As we sing together, as you do, a film crew comes closer. It turns out that Gonzalez has a Youtube channel and he spends his days performing for unsuspecting people in the park and then posts their reactions online. We had spent fifteen minutes laughing and singing. I wonder what twenty seconds of worthwhile footage they will post.
I talk with the two security guards for a while. They are very friendly and quick to laugh and smile at my antics and answers. The man of the pair speaks some English.

 Left to right . . . Rachel, Laura and Diana

As I walk away, three beautiful young girls stop me to ask whether I would like to have a go on their display board. A large, Wheel of Fortune-like' wheel had sections with Spanish phrase in each. Each phrase detailed how one could help the environment by reduce, reuse or recycle. Stop plastic pollution, the message is being spread here in Peru. I have a turn and win a recycle messaged keyring. That will go nicely on the bike. It is fantastic to see these three girls, Rachel, Laura and Diana doing this as they leave me and attend to the group of people who had gathered.



I go the smaller pool further north in the park and put my finger into the green water and have it sucked by a large carp. Terrapins watch suspiciously. Another security guard tells me that that isn't allowed also!



Butterflies! Small blue species, a skipper species, and no I don't know the species names but I will look them up. A passing Monarch I do know though.

The park has a lot of diminuitive cleaners. Face-masked and with bright yellow florescent jackets they litter pick and sweep. I join one of them in picking up small pieces of plastic litter, much to the lady's amusement. Other workers are gardening or maintaining the trees. How many hundred olive trees here I am not sure but my temptation to pick the beautiful looking olives, ready and ripe, is resisted. Most likely . . . not allowed.

Wednesday, 28 March 2018

A Day in Miraflores, Lima.


I do so hope that you will follow my adventures. You can do so via this blog and also by my Biking Birder Facebook page and Twitter feed.


or via my personal Facebook page :


I am trying to raise money for two charities and obviously I would love you to donate to them.


Birdlife International



Chaskwasi-Manu Children's Project


OK! The adventure starts on Sunday next at Los Pantanos de Villa nature reserve, south of Lima, Peru. After the day spent there birding with friends, the adventure of my lifetime is ahead; six months of cycling, packrafting and birding. Six months to experience oceanic coastline, desert, mountains and rainforest. Six months to try and see more than 618 bird species, the incredible Green Birding list that is the current World Green Birding Year list record held by Dorian Anderson of the USA.

27th March 2018 – Miraflores, Lima, Peru


Up early for here, late for the UK and out, after unpacking the bike and putting it together. A walk down to Parque Kennedy to sit and watch as birds came into the trees, avoiding the many cats to be found here. Tropical Kingbirds, Long-tailed Mockingbirds, Red-faced Parakeets and West Peruvian Doves with more colour to be found on the superb Vermilion Flycatcher and an Amazilian Hummingbird. Good numbers of Southern Beardless Tyrannulets are in amongst the dense foliage. Lots of Shiny Cowbirds are on the grass, some allowing one to walk right by them.




To the beach and more surfers out amongst the breakers than I had seen here before, more sunbathers on the pebbles too. Lots of plastic on the pebbles and after watching the numerous Rainbow Crabs on the rocks, I empty a large carrier bag of my banana sandwiches and set to clearing as much as I can from a section of the beach.

Two carrier bags full I take to a bin with larger pieces of plastic placed in the bin too, I return to the cleared spot to find more has already been deposited by the waves! How much plastic is out there?


Other than a small number of Franklin's Gulls on telegraph wires, far fewer than I have seen here previously, and a few Inca Terns on the pier stanchions, there are few birds close in shore. About a half mile out to sea though a very large flock of Peruvian Boobies and Pelicans and both Guanay and Neotropic Cormorants are actively fishing, following what must be a huge shoal of fish. The flock remains vibrant, diving in by their hundreds for half an hour or so and come closer to the end of a rocky jetty. Slowly the action fades and birds drift off.

It is hot, 28 degrees Celsius and I walk back to San Isidro via a supermarket where the lack of plastic wrapping on the superb fruit and veg is evident. How sad that this will change over the coming years. As if we need more plastic!

Love to you all, Gary.

Biking Birder in Rwanda 2025, Rugezi Ornithology Center Interview No. 2 Irakoze Roger

  Another interview video from my Biking Birder adventure from 2025, this one features Irakoze Roger. The Rugezi Ornithology Center is based...