11th June 2010
The Muffin Man Frank Zappa
What a gale in the night! It had been so calm and sunny the evening before and I had gone to bed after watching a beautiful sunset fade to indigo with a star-filled sky. Luckily, I had set the tent up next to a wire fence and I quickly had to tie the tent guide ropes to this in fear of it being blown away by the intensely strong wind. The rushing noise and maybe, the fear of being blown out to sea, kept me awake for much of the night. Sleep was fitful but eventually I managed a couple of hours of deep sleep, dream-filled and restful.
Awoken by the loud sound of massed auks and seabirds in the early morning. A Twite
[206] landed nearby on the fence near the tent. During the first hours of
the morning whilst it was still dark, I had heard a foghorn. Upon opening the
tent flap I was astonished to see that the gale had subsided and in its place
was thick fog!
The
phantom foghorn of Rathlin Island. On talking about this later in the morning
to the RSPB warden, I was surprised to learn that there is not a foghorn at the
lighthouse! A passing ship must have had such a device and sent out the warning
of it being in the area.
Speaking of the RSPB warden, Stephen, together with another RSPB gentleman
named John, and they invited me down the long stairway as they opened the
lighthouse viewing platform and the shop on the lower level. The thick fog
prevented any viewing of birds and we sat chatting about life, the universe and
everything, hoping that the fog would lift.
People
arrived after Stephen had kindly given me a strong cup of coffee. A minibus
full of mostly Japanese people, which included a small, frail but highly active
ninety year old lady, as well as a man from Slovakia and a lady named Katrina.
Katrina was here to make a documentary on seabirds for the Gaelic TV channel.
She asked if she could interview me and of course I said “of course.”
The
sea fog stopped the visitors from getting a view of the cliffs and birds and Stephen
gave a talk to everyone as we all waited for the fog to lift or dissipate
completely. John dressed in a Puffin costume. Mind you, he did look a
particularly skinny-looking Puffin. No rotund, comic appearance, John did not
even move like a Puffin!
Suddenly, within minutes of the fog lifting, it was gone and the view was breath-taking.
As I walked onto the viewing area
overlooking the birds on a nearby stack and over to the safety fencing, I am
not ashamed to say I shed a few tears. What an amazing view! Thousands of
birds, with a terrific upswell of noise and all within a majestic, spectacular
setting. This has got to be one of the RSPB's jewels in their crown. A fabulous,
magical place. If you want to know of one of the best RSPB reserves to visit and
people frequently still ask me which RSPB reserves I would recommend visiting,
then make the effort and get yourself to Rathlin Island during the breeding
season. Imagine another one of the best RSPB reserves, Bempton Cliffs in
Yorkshire but with the addition of the excitement of getting to it by boat
after travelling along one of the best coastlines in the United Kingdom.
Heard the story of Prince Edward and Sophie's visit to the island. Don't
believe everything in the Daily Mail; the meal in the pub was great according
to the pair, or so the locals told me.
Photos with Liam, Stephen and John - all brilliant people and so very welcoming
to one and all; followed by goodbyes and a cycle back to the harbour. Met there
by Katrina who took some photos and footage of me leaving the island on the
boat.
An absolutely wonderful day.
If you ever get the chance, visit Rathlin Island RSPB reserve. It would be
worth the effort but make sure you go when the seabirds are on the cliffs.
Be aware that the seabird centre is 4 miles from the harbour but there is a bus
service.
Next time goodbye to 'Norn Ireland' and a ferry to the Isle of Man. Clarkson's house and hot, sunny weather, castles and government.
All the best everyone
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